Mercury Snowmobiles Discussion Board

by **Twisters** » Wed Oct 23, 2002 1:06 am

Any one who has a question about a twister I would be glad to help. I have been racing them and working on them for about 15 years now and I want to see more twisters on the track. It feels like I am the only one out there Kickn a** on a twister!!! You can reach me at my email-- My name is Chuck

by **Mercpro** » Sat Nov 02, 2002 6:47 pm

Just picked up a used 1975 440 F/A and rebuilding as we speak. Don't plan on racing it but will be out on the Wisconsin fields this year. Good to know I'm not the only one.

by **rhaber** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 12:19 am

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Twisters
 Any one who has a question about a twister I would be glad to help. I have been racing them and working on them for about 15 years now and I want to see more twisters on the track. It feels like I am the only one out there Kickn a** on a twister!!! You can reach me at my email-- My name is Chuck
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

by **rhaber** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 12:39 am

Chuck,

I have just taken my 75 TT from the back of the shed and found that although I have not been using it in ten years my little field mice friends have been calling it home. They did a number and I have found that both carbs and the block are frozen tight. I am not that worried about the carbs because parts should be avaiable but I question the avaiabliity of parts for the Twisters. Any Info you could provide would be helpful. When I parked it it was running and it was always kept under cover. I never expected that it would be a problem. When I found your Technical Help offer, I figured this would be a great place to start.

Best Regards,
Ron

by **jerry** » Sat Jan 11, 2003 6:57 pm

I have a 340 Twister and a set of factory race jugs. What has to be
changed on motor to run them. Carbs? ect.

by **tweeky** » Tue Feb 04, 2003 9:23 pm

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Twisters
 Any one who has a question about a twister I would be glad to help. I have been racing them and working on them for about 15 years now and I want to see more twisters on the track. It feels like I am the only one out there Kickn a** on a twister!!! You can reach me at my email-- My name is Chuck
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Dear Chuck
This Winter I have been racing 1/2 mile oval with my 75 Merc 340ST. I have a great hole shot but I am lacking on top end. Could you recomend a good primary and secondary cutch setup. I have an artic cat primary and a salsbury secondary
Thanks
tweeky

Corey P Buer

by **Dean Hatt** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 11:34 pm

I have a 1976 Trail Twister 340 with a stock engine what can I do to the clutch or anything else to give it more power without touching the engine.Also in canada where could I find 76 sno-twister running or not running or even the chassis or complete body ?

by **alpex3457** » Sun Nov 09, 2003 5:38 pm

What rpm should i run my trail twister at?

by **440 MERC T T** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 10:32 pm

Manual says 7,000. I find that peaking just a little above on hard take off and leveling out to 7,000 works good for me. Jeff

by **Mercury Mike** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:35 pm

Chuck, I need your advise on a couple of things..I currently have 2 76's, one being a 440 l/c the other being a 340 l/c. The 340 is in very good condition and needs only a basic clean up, meaning suspension rebuild, track re-rivited, cabs gone threw, fiberglass repaired and repainted and will be back up to standards within a reasonable amount of time. The 440 has just received a complete tunnel up restoration. I seem to have a problem with the track dragging on top of the springs on both sides after adjustment. I don't know what I am doing wrong. I don't think I am missing any parts because I have the 340 to compare it with; it is basically the same suspension. The engine ran very well; I did discover that both cylinders have been sleeved and running .010 pistons. Porting appears to be stock. The stator housing has several cracks and the wires coming from the stator are freyed, cracked and in need of replacement. Do you know of anyone who is reliable where I can have them go through this engine and repair only what is needed? Any advice on your behalf would be greatly appreciated. By the way, my name is Mike.

by **SHewelt** » Wed Jan 21, 2004 2:48 pm

Stator wire insulation all rot off after 25 years, even if just sitting on the shelf. The insulation just didn't hold up. Remove the stator & follow the wires back to the windings & replace. Be sure to solder & re-insulate with heat-shrink or good tape. The tracks dragged on the top of the rear cross link. I cut the cross-link tube & added wheels to the cross-shaft, then locked in place with locking collars & spring washers...works excellent. I have pic's of the suspension if you want to see. Saves the track from that stupid metal bumper that was welded on there. If you are dragging on the springs, you have the springs on the wrong side...swap them & hitting the track will stop...just a bit longer on one side than the other....I've done it myself! All your engine parts are available...except maybe 0.010" over pistons...those may be tricky.

by **bradparrot** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 6:12 pm

Hi Chuck, I will be getting my first 76 sno-twister in a few weeks, it is a 250, it is complete,need a rebliud this I am going to do this summer. Is there a differance with the stock 250 motor and a sno-pro 250? I have someone offering me a 250 calling it a sno-pro motor. Do you know of anywhere a person can get new glass for a sno-pro?

Thank you
Brad
quote]Originally posted by Twisters
 Any one who has a question about a twister I would be glad to help. I have been racing them and working on them for about 15 years now and I want to see more twisters on the track. It feels like I am the only one out there Kickn a** on a twister!!! You can reach me at my email-- My name is Chuck
[/quote]

by **red merc** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 9:51 am

I have the red merc 75 rupp nitro f/a question is, are the 75 f/a and 76 liquid kohler engines crankshafs the same? crankases? how about the fan motors any parts the same as 75 f/a motor? will the 76 cdi work on 75, do i have to change stator or is 75 same as 76? what are the best plugs to run,timming ? what head mods would you suggest from minor to radical any info would be helpfull i have four engines to play with so not afraid to sacrifice one to learn thanks Duane

by **SHewelt** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 2:44 pm

Here's what I know: The 76RLC crank is different than the 75 F/A(RS) crank, as the 76 was welded pin & stronger, but physically will interchange (75 F/A & RLC cases same). Fan (AS) engines are all different (castingwise), but 340 pistons will work in RS-F/A, RLC (LC) and AS...440RS pistons were 0.5mm smaller in 440s, but FAN & RLC both had 68mm bores. The 76 CDI on the FAN will work on the 75F/A (both Prestolites), but then 76 RLC used a Thunderbolt...which is totally different. You can swap over a 75 to a 76-T-bolt, but will have to change stator, rotor, trigger, all the hardware (bolts etc) and bellhousing. No real reason to do so unless that's the only ignition system you have. I would suggest leaving the head mod's to one of the speed shops. Label-X and others do very well for decent $. They can also tell you what works if you decide to add more MOD's later. I always run B8ES or B9ES...the surface gap plugs are old technology & too cold...you can't use them to read for jetting. Timing on the Fan's was around 0.080" BTDC, I run my 76 Liquids around 22~23* BTDC. I believe the F/A (RS) was also near 0.080"...regardless, always listen for pings & keep an eye on the plugs & set timing accordingly...Scott

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by red merc
 I have the red merc 75 rupp nitro f/a question is, are the 75 f/a and 76 liquid kohler engines crankshafs the same? crankases? how about the fan motors any parts the same as 75 f/a motor? will the 76 cdi work on 75, do i have to change stator or is 75 same as 76? what are the best plugs to run,timming ? what head mods would you suggest from minor to radical any info would be helpfull i have four engines to play with so not afraid to sacrifice one to learn thanks Duane
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

by **SHewelt** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:07 pm

Kurt...congrats on the 76-L/C...I hope you realize what you have there. If it's been sitting, you need to go through the engine. Crank seals will need to be replaced. May as well check compression on both sides, but better to just take apart anyway & look at the cyl walls, replace rings & maybe pistons. All gaskets, bearings, seals pistons, rings, etc are all available. Check the wires exiting the engine (stator) They dry-rot & the insulation cracks & falls off....they all do it & need to be repaired. Check out the track...most are very old & with a cleated track, you don't want to run it if there is cracks & rot, loose cleats etc. Check out the jackshaft / chaincase & drive-shaft bearings & replace if not free. You can easily pull that whole sled apart & go through everything fairly easily...simple sled to work on. Do youreself a favor & check everything out & refrain from the urge to ride it before doing everything....you will thank yourself if you check everything out when you do ride it. Keep it off the trails...not very good for anything other than flat drags or ice-ovals & hold on!!!

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