I'm in the process of removing the track from my Sno Scoot. Although the service manual I have indicates you have to pull the motor along with the suspension to remove the track, I believe I can do this without removing the engine. Has anyone else removed the track without pulling the motor on their Scoot? The issue I'm having now is getting the nut on the clutch to loosen. My thinking is that once I remove the clutch, I can acces the gear case. At that point, I should be able to remove the gears and ultimately drop the drive axle and thus the suspension; once the bolts holding the suspension to the frame as well as the shock bolted to the frame are removed. My only problem is getting that darn clutch to come off. Any tips or pointers on what others have done would be appreciated.
Also, I was reading on this forum about the clutch rollers possibly getting flat spots on them. If they do have flat spots, can the rollers be replaced separately or do you have to replace the whole clutch? The service manual mentions checking the spring length and clutch shoes but did not mention rollers; unless rollers and shoes are one in the same.
Track Removal and Clutch Question
Ok, got the cluth off, removed the case cover, and was able to remove the smaller gear behind the gasket but now have a question about the larger gear. Is that gear threaded onto the drive axle? I can't seem to get this gear off. Any suggestions? The service manual makes it appear as if there are threads on the one end and splines on the other since it states to check the threads/spline on the drive axle.
Thought I would update this post in case others may need to reference it if they ever decide to replace the track themselves. The larger gear that I was struggling with had a circlip on the backside that you can't get to until you remove the drive axle. Removing just the suspension will not provide you with enough room to access the circlip. My problem was thinking that I could drop the track and suspension without removing the engine by accessing the gear case and removing the gears; similarly to what you would do on current sleds. Because of that circlip, I had to focus on the right side and remove the right side engine stay plate . This allowed me to remove the drive axle and ultimately the track.
When removing the suspension without removing the engine, it was some what difficult to get to one of the three bolts on the bearing holder for the swing arm. But once I loosened the bolts on the engine bracket (the shaft that bolts to the frame where it has two bolts on the left side and one on the right side), I was able to rotate the track/suspension assembly enough to gain access to that one bolt.
As for my question about the clutch rollers. In the service manual, they refer to them as clutch weights. Now that I know what I am looking for, I will disassemble the primary clutch and inspect them for flat spots.
Hope others find this information useful as it was quite a learning experience for me.
When removing the suspension without removing the engine, it was some what difficult to get to one of the three bolts on the bearing holder for the swing arm. But once I loosened the bolts on the engine bracket (the shaft that bolts to the frame where it has two bolts on the left side and one on the right side), I was able to rotate the track/suspension assembly enough to gain access to that one bolt.
As for my question about the clutch rollers. In the service manual, they refer to them as clutch weights. Now that I know what I am looking for, I will disassemble the primary clutch and inspect them for flat spots.
Hope others find this information useful as it was quite a learning experience for me.
Cory, thanks but it was the least I could do considering the information I have gathered from this site. Let me know if you have any questions or run into problems during your track swap.
Something to consider while the track and suspension are out (espeically if you're like me and don't want to have to do this again for a while) is check/replace sliders and boogie wheels. Also, re-pack all bearings; not just the ones in the boogie wheels but the drive axles as well. I have a small needle like pick that I use to get under the bearing cover and pry off. Once the cover is removed, I use a needle grease nozzle to apply grease into the bearing and then re-apply bearing cover.
Something to consider while the track and suspension are out (espeically if you're like me and don't want to have to do this again for a while) is check/replace sliders and boogie wheels. Also, re-pack all bearings; not just the ones in the boogie wheels but the drive axles as well. I have a small needle like pick that I use to get under the bearing cover and pry off. Once the cover is removed, I use a needle grease nozzle to apply grease into the bearing and then re-apply bearing cover.
If you are going through the work of replacing track, then replace all bearings too. I would not recomend just pushing new grease in. Most of the times the bearings are pitted, rusted and hitchy. Cheap to replace compared to time taking apart cleaning up, and repacking. There the idler wheel bearings, engine stay (swing frame) and two on track drive axle. The rt axle bearing, (20*42*12) slides on axel shaft. The left axel bearing (22*44*12) is pressed into tranny housing, a little more work the tranny and secondary clutch has to come off but bearing is usually dry and hitchy. There are two (engine stay bearings), 17*35*10, these are located on swing frame about were your feet set on scoot. I believe there should be a total of 8 bearings to replace. 9 if you have three rear axle wheels. Idler wheel bearings are 20*42*12 same as rt axel bearing.